Scene setting: Last season, Louis Vuitton was the first fashion house allowed to stage a runway show at the IM Pei-designed Cour Marly of the Louvre. For the brand’s S/S 2018 ’s show, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière delved deeper into the foundations of the famed museum, a far cry from its futuristic glass pyramid entrance, into the lower level of the Pavillion de l’Horloge. Located in the west wing of the Palais, the floor is home to a medieval moat, and is a space which offers insight into how the building was transformed from a fortress into a grand and historic palace.
Mood board: The designer was preoccupied with the transcendence of time and the dialogue between past and present wardrobes- garments of the future and archaic artefacts enclosed within museum vitrines. This was conveyed in a collection that fused an amalgam of references, like brocade dress coats paired with sporty boxing shirts, high top trainers and metallic leather trousers or voluminous sleeve blouses with patent vests. It was regal meets rock and roll, aristocratic meets athletic – aimed at a customer keen to mix references in a microscopic version of a sartorial French Revolution.
Best in show: Ghesquière is renowned for his futuristic aesthetic, one he honed during his tenure at the creative helm of Balenciaga. Vuitton’s space-age S/S 2016 collection, for example, was presented to a soundtrack from Tron: Legacy. For S/S 2018, the designers focus was on the much-lauded sci-fi Netflix drama Stranger Things. Ghesquière layered a wide sleeved blouse with a merchy Stranger Things tee, sure to be a popular entry-level staple for LV shoppers next season.