Tag / fashion
Backstage at New York Fashion Week women’s S/S 2018
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Sies Marjan S/S 2018
Scene setting: In an inspired move, Sies Marjan designer Sander Lak brough the fashion crowd to his front door, unveiling his latest collection where it was conceived: his studio. With the catwalk running through the atelier, the library and the studio’s reception, guests were able to get a first-hand glimpse into Lak’s processes and sources of inspiration.
Mood board: Texture was the connective thread for spring/summer 2018. Garments boasted a wrung and wrinkled quality, whether crafted from chiffon, moleskin and satin, all achieved by putting them through a humble wash cycle.
Best in show: Distortions such as bleeding paint strokes, snagged stripes, picked up hems and twisted details gave the otherwise classic and elegant silhouettes a fresh and disruptive look. Teamed with sneaker mules and twisted booties with sculptural, exaggerated heels, the thoughtful, yet carefree collection was an alluring breath of fresh air.
New York Fashion Week S/S 2018 womenswear editor’s picks
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Direct to Consumers : La nouvelle génération des marques DtoC
Warby Parker, Glossier, Everlane, Bonobos, Ayr, Sezane, Cienne, Wellington, Ledbury, Maisons Standard, Tamara Mellon, Equinox Uniform Wares, ByChloé... De nouvelles marques insolentes, authentiques, inébranlables face à Amazon, dopées à la technologie et au réseaux sociaux font leur apparition sur le web et brouillent les frontières du monde digital et physique. Elles réinventent la manière de créer les marques et réécrivent les règles du business.
Plongée dans la nouvelle génération des marques Direct to consumer (DtoC).
De nouveaux codes Digital Native : A l’heure où 67% des millennials préfèrent acheter en ligne selon Big Commerce, la première rupture visible pour ces marques -souvent issues de l’univers de la mode et du luxe et portées par des designers de la mêle génération- repose sur une construction digitale et respectant les codes du lean luxe avant d’aller explorer les frontières du physique.
Abordables : Souvent moins chères en l’absence de réseau physique, elles constit..
House rules: Richard Wentworth captures the inner sanctum of maison Alaïa
Of all the exhibitions that have been mounted thus far at the Galerie Azzedine Alaïa, an evocative presentation of photographs by Richard Wentworth is the first to turn inward on the maison. The estimable British artist treats one of the most venerated names in fashion with remarkable closeness; yet his access and acceptance as an insider yields a series that reveals details little by little, free of linear structure or imposed emotion. Each glimpse feels spontaneous, yet nonetheless in deference to Alaïa’s rarefied craft and communal culture.
But the full extent of intention is largely communicated through the show’s scenography, which actually exists as an on-site sculpture. Nailed onto plywood boards staggered throughout the versatile atrium – the same one that has been transformed into a runway venue or showroom – the unframed prints could be alternately perceived as fragments of activity, output and architecture surrounded by expanses of space; presumably all the moments left und..
Farewell to Pierre Bergé (1930-2017), a tour de force in French fashion and culture
Pierre Bergé, the co-founder of French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent, patron of the arts and passionate AIDS campaigner, has died at the age of 86. Bergé passed away this morning at his home in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence after a long illness.
Bergé was the longtime companion of Yves Saint Laurent, and the financial figurehead behind the maison he co-founded with the renowned fashion designer in 1961. The creation of the ‘Rive Gauche’ label in 1966 heralded the revolutionary concept of ready-to-wear – Yves Saint Laurent became renowned for democratising the stiff and elitist world of haute couture.
From Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Mondrian’ dress to the androgynous ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo suit, the brand’s designs were a pioneering force behind the Parisian fashion landscape during the sixties and seventies. It was a business that continually expanded into new territories, including fragrance and Paloma Picasso-designed accessories, and catered to the sartorial needs of figures including Marie-H..
A quiet modernist gem in Suffolk opens its doors in fundraising bid
Single-storey, flat-roofed, grey, minimalist houses don’t usually feature on the postcards and calendars for Suffolk. But these buildings, and the architects who created them, are increasingly gaining recognition. The stark, simplistic lines are now being seen as complementary with East Anglia’s broad skies and flat North Sea.
‘We tend to think of modernism in an urban context,’ says Emily Richardson, an artist-filmmaker who is currently profiling three modernist architects in this region. ‘Historically people have not really liked modernism – some kinds of building have a stigma attached to them,’ she says. ‘But, as time moves on, with a greater distance, things are seen differently. I’m interested in the fact that there are so many wonderful examples in East Anglia.’
Richardson is highlighting the work of John Penn in East Suffolk, Jim Cadbury-Brown in Aldeburgh, as well as a house designed by the architecture firm Team 4, commissioned by Humphrey Spender in Ulting, Essex. Initiall..
Claudio Silvestrin’s Cannon Lane House in Hampstead is a multi-storey marvel
Designed by architect Claudio Silvestrin for forward-thinking developer Gary Giessing, our location house for our September 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*222) was built on a constrained site and faced some important planning stipulations, but it certainly isn’t lacking in amenities.
From the basement pool and spa, past a multi-level garden by Chelsea gold medallist Chris Beardshaw, all the way up to the rooftop bedroom with City skyline views, it’s the epitome of high-end contemporary residential design.
The local council’s demand for a brick façade and continuity have resulted in a very stealthy dwelling at street level. Three materials – stone, oak and bronze – form the core of the house with the Bolzano-sourced stone giving the interiors a carved, cave-like quality (albeit one with meticulously precise geometry).
A spread from the ‘Trench Fever’ leather coat shoot in our September 2017 issue (W*222). Photography: Máté Moro. Fashion: Lune Kuipers
Inspired by the soft structuring o..
Just for kicks: Nike and Virgil Abloh get in step
Like most American teenagers, Virgil Abloh, the multi-dexterous creative behind cult fashion label Off-White, grew up coveting Nike trainers. In his younger days, Abloh and his friends would sketch shoe ideas and send them to Nike (they were politely rejected). This week, Abloh’s highly anticipated reimagining of ten iconic Nike styles is being unveiled in all its glory. Simply known as ‘The Ten’, the collection teams Off-White’s irreverent styling with Nike’s iconic heritage for a fresh design perspective.
In Abloh’s hands, the ten Nike silhouettes – Air Jordan I, Air Max 90, Air Presto, Nike Air VaporMax, Blazer Mid, Converse Chuck Taylor, Nike Air Max 97, Nike Air Force 1 Low, including two new styles: Nike React Hyperdunk and NikeLab Zoom Fly SP – have been revamped with deconstructed and material interventions.
An installation at the Nike Off Campus pop-up
Shoes have been cut by hand and reconstructed, remade with translucent uppers and reversed materials, and emblazoned with ..
Pierre Yovanovitch’s playful debut furniture collection is 20 years in the making
When French interior architect Pierre Yovanovitch unveiled his furniture at R & Company gallery in New York recently, he did so under the title ‘Oops’. This might suggest that his show materialised by happy accident, or that it is somehow slight or slapdash. However, his presentation of 24 unique pieces – alongside his selection of art and objects from R & Company and elsewhere, including works by Wendell Castle, Joaquim Tenreiro and the Haas Brothers, plus two custom paintings by Claire Tabouret – is testament to a tremendous amount of effort.
‘I started one year ago, but I really started 20 years ago,’ says Yovanovitch. The designer has spent his career seeking out and working with French artisans, customising the traditional techniques that underpin a timeless collection of subtly playful pieces.
We are sitting in a small reception room in his Paris atelier, which occupies a five-storey, 18th-century hôtel particulier in the second arrondissement. Before his expanding team of 30 m..